2008年5月12日星期一

An anniversary is a time to reflect

As we approach the sixth anniversary of Between the Vines, I think it important to stop, smell the dried rose petals, relax, reflect and take another sip of pinot noir. On the topic of smell, you've probably read about the Bordeaux wine maker, Ilija Gort, who had his nose insured for about $8 million by Lloyd's of Dried Rose Bud . After reading that, I immediately called my insurance agent, and, well, he pretty much told me where I could stick my nose. In other news, Paul Newman's food brand, Newman's Own, is coming out with a line of wines, Butch Cabernet and the Sundance Blanc. Actually, they really are producing a California cabernet sauvignon and a chardonnay, and if the wines are as good as Fig Newmans, I'll be waxing eloquent on them. By the way, I forgot in my article on yak cheese to include the one wine to pair it with, and it was so obvious: any wine from Yakima. Meanwhile, out in my little vineyard, all the vines are pruned, and I'm just waiting for the temperatures to crawl out of the basement. Maybe by July we'll have bud-break. Which would put harvest at just about Christmas. On the other hand, all it takes is one warm, dry spell, and things could take off early. Or maybe on time. Speaking of which, to celebrate my anniversary, I'm taking off. My lovely wife and I are sojourning nine days in Paris. And although we'll take a few day trips (Versailles, Giverny), I also have to make sure my favorite Paris wine bars, Jacques Melac, Au Sauvignon, A la Cloches des Halles, are up to snuff. And you can bet I'll be returning home loaded with stinky French cheese. I can already see my kids' faces scrunched up in agony. But, before I run off, let me leave you with a couple handy wine recommendations. I've been saving one particular wine for a warm spring day, but that's not going to happen (it's snowing as I write these words). But still, try this serious rosé from West Salem's Cubanisimo, the 2006 Rosado de Pinot Noir, $20. This is bone dry, with wonderful aromas of strawberry and flowers and a soft, mellow texture. The flavors are of tart berry and fresh blackberry with an intriguing note of brown spice. Now if we could just get some warm weather to enjoy it with. Willamette Valley Vineyards has a new offering out, the 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, $25, a pleasing, pretty thing, beginning with lovely aromatics of blackberry, strawberry and cherry. Mild tannins accentuate the intense fruitiness with cola, strawberry and blackberry flavors. It's soft, pretty and easy to cozy up to. And from ol' (Jay) McDonald's farm comes the EIEIO, 2006 Cuvée E Pinot Noir, $30. You know how some wines just smell big? Well, this does. And the color looks like syrah on a cloudy night. But it has the classic pinot noir nose of dried rose petals, earth and bing cherry leading into rich, full flavors of plum, tobacco and tar. It's very lush on the midpalate, and a wee harsh on the finish. Given that note, combined with the big tannins and bracing acidity, I would guess this to be an ager.

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